Political Cracks in Aceh Undermine Aid Effort As Military Seeks to Oust Foreigners Eyewitness: Tsunami Aftermath a Nervous Army, Fearful Government and Rebel Forces Are Putting More Strain On a Devastated Area, Finds Torcuil Crichton

Summary

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EVEN before the aftershocks had stopped rumbling through the ground in Aceh, Indonesia's troubled and devastated province, the business of politics and of making money had returned to normal.

Those aid workers and journalists who couldn't get a flight into the ruined city of Banda Aceh faced a 12-hour road journey from Medan through the disputed province which, everyone agreed, was best done during daylight hours.

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Extract

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Political Cracks in Aceh Undermine Aid Effort As Military Seeks to Oust Foreigners Eyewitness: Tsunami Aftermath a Nervous Army, Fearful Government and Rebel Forces Are Putting More Strain On a Devastated Area, Finds Torcuil Crichton

The dangers of night driving, crazy motorists and aid convoys weren't the only obstacles on the road to Aceh. There was also the Indonesian army to get past.

Despite being furnished with the appropriate visas and forms, there was no way to get round the army border patrol without paying the appropriate toll.

What was the cost of entry into Aceh, so that our fluent English- speaking sergeant could phone ahead to ensure our vehicle was "protected" on the road ahead? He s...

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