The Cheek of It: Despite Its Vaunted Health Benefits, There's an Offal Dark Side to the Mediterranean Diet

Sunday HeraldMarch 09, 2005

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Summary


WITH so much to worry about - the election, arrangements for the royal wedding - we took some time off to consider the offal food of Borecelona. As a part-time resident of this relatively sunny clime, the Buffer enjoys the Mediterranean diet. The salads, olive oil, garlic, blue fish, corn-fed chicken that never lived in a factory, fruit, red wine.

This is all very healthy but not as interesting as that other, slightly darker side of the Med diet - the consumption of the lesser- known parts of the animal. The Buffer's pursuit of dishes involving bestial excrescences and internal organs was sparked by an idle comment from my Borecelona guide. "That restaurant, " he said in his perfectly conserved Kirkcaldy tones, "does the best rabo de toro in Barcelona".

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The Cheek of It: Despite Its Vaunted Health Benefits, There's an Offal Dark Side to the Mediterranean Diet

Rabo de toro is oxtail. With all the publicity in recent years about bovine pestilence, you would normally think twice about eating the meat from the nether end of this animal. Then you think about the British supermarkets clearing their shelves of millions of items with that Sudan 1 colouring additive. What we found particularly strange about Sudan 1 was that as well as being an ingredie...

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