High Street Looks

Sunday HeraldMarch 22, 2005

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Summary


MASTER & COMMANDER

Re-appraise your ideas about the naval tradition, as that's exactly what many of the hottest designers decided to do this season with some startlingly cool and refreshing results

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High Street Looks

FOR everyone bemoaning the profusion of hippy deluxe and hokey folk styles that are dominating fashion again this season, perhaps it's time to make a few surprising aquatic discoveries. But not in New York where Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren are all cruising through their favourite Nantucket/East Hampton/St Tropez waters. All anchored to the Fitzgerald Riviera style, they showed classy, exclusive and expensive stripes for the stars. But as chic as wide stripes, wider leg trousers and acres of taut, toned and tanned flesh is, ground-breaking it ain't.

But it was in Paris where things really started to get interesting, when Nicolas Ghesquiere, the designer responsible for the critically acclaimed reinvention of the house of Balenciaga, made the naval trend sexy with faintly militaristic overtones which felt current and exciting. With the chilly winds of commercial pressure on his shoulders of late, this season Ghesquiere delivered a collection that didn't just set the fashion editors' hearts on fire, but which tempered his intellectual and aesthetic concerns with shape and proportion into a stunning array of outfits t...

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